Just remembered an important final story told to me by King, the sharp and talented manager at Olenana Tent Camp, our last and most elegant stop. He had a group of relatively elderly Americans come through, very well-prepared with their new iPhones with video capability, etc, etc. They were taken to a local Maasai village for the demonstration of the traditional dance and tour. There was a commotion, and the visitors all converged together in a huddle, much discussion. The village chief joined in to offer any help. Turns out, they were having difficulty figuring out the video function on their phones or iPads!!! The chief showed them how to work it all and everyone was quite pleased, if not embarrassed. And while I’m inspired to write by the seven hour layover in Heathrow airport, I will share thoughts about recommending this trip to someone, as it is not for everyone. I quizzed all the guides fairly extensively, as well as seasoned travelers we met, to come to my conclusions. It boils down to things we fear or loathe, to borrow a phrase from one of my favorite authors. As for fears, the realistic common ones include flying, severe sickness, injury by animals, and local crime. Things we loathe might be severe heat, poor sanitation, racism or cultural resentment, bad food, surly service, exorbitant costs, horrible weather, very long travel times, long bumpy roads, and insects. Here is my take: Not worth it if you’re afraid of flying. Exorbitant if you upgrade to business for all legs of the trip – maybe $7,000 each, but can sleep all legs. Great way to use miles if you got ‘em. Severe sickness is rare if you take precautions. Travelers’ diarrhea is seldom a disaster, usually fixable, minor. Malaria is rare with precautions and curable. It’s an occupational hazard of the guides, and they regularly take a course of meds, and they are fixed. Don’t do this trip if you have a bad back or can’t sit for 6 -8 hours a day on very bumpy roads with lots of dust. Crime. Nairobi is known to be a dangerous city at night and should probably be avoided after dark. Bags at the airport do go missing rarely so try to prepare. In no location, at any time did I feel uneasy or worried, any feeling of resentment or dislike, or unwelcome. I did not hear any rumor or story of money or items missing or stolen or of any crime. Granted, we had a driver for every moment of our trip, and generally were at higher end places. Sanitation at the public toilets was not worse than the lousy places in America. At all the places we stayed everything was immaculate at all times, even the vehicles, washed daily like mine. All staff had not a wrinkle in the uniforms, including the guides. Always looked better than Bev, and sometimes better than I. All had bottled water in the rooms. Very proper British feel. I never had an add-on charge surprise or felt a charge was very high. Every minor tip was accepted graciously and gratefully, though they were small by our standards. I cannot think of a country where the service was so consistently good, sincere, happy, and grateful. At Serena Lodge at Amboselli, Maremboi Tent Camp, and Kitela Lodge at the Ngorangora crater the meals were good but not surprising. At Lemala and Olenana, they were both extraordinary and surprising. A real experience, such as spiced warm sunflower seeds and batter fried peanuts. Which leaves weather and injury. If you travel in the well known dry months (January, February, June, July, August, September,) you are usually rewarded with some of the best weather in the world. Lows of 60 at night and highs of 85 are the expected. It never gets as hot as New Jersey in the summer, or as cold as the spring or fall here, contrary to what you might expect on the equator. Injury would be really unlucky, and will not come from an animal since you are not allowed out of the truck except to check tire pressure briefly. I should insert here for you ladies –it is a valuable talent to be able to pee in back of the truck. Don’t worry, you are never hiking through dangerous terrain. And insects? The flies were a nuisance sometimes, but tolerable. The mosquitoes were minimal and less than at home in summer. And very importantly, you must think carefully about whether you want to be in a group tour or travel privately. I must say I was constantly thrilled not to be the seventh person in the seventh seat of the second vehicle, with no choice of when my game drives were starting. Bill Rooney, if you have additions, deletions, or corrections, please post to all. Veteran of 20 plus extended trips. To sum it all up, one must balance the fears and loathings against the trip that offers 100 surprises per day, and more. Signing off. Jambo
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